Clipping Your Horse

Horses in the wild grow long, thick protective coats that shed naturally, ruled by the change of seasons. Domesticated horses also shed their coats on a seasonal basis if they are pastured outside for most of the year -- this is natural and healthy.

Leaving a long coat on a horse that is stabled in warm accommodations or one that is frequently exercised moderately can cause problems. As you may well know, a thick-coated, overheated horse will not dry quickly and properly in cold weather.

As you uncoil your extension cord and oil your clippers, know the grooming requirements and clipping protocol best suited for your type of horse.

A horse ridden on a regular basis, in a warm/dry climate has different needs from horses stabled or pastured where the rain/snow can be heavy and the temperatures can freefall to below freezing during the winter months.

The type of discipline the horse is used for is also in question? The owner of the show horse must know the correct grooming, clipping and etiquette for proper care of the horse. Show horses need more comprehensive clipping to be appropriately prepared for competition.

For whatever reason you are trimming, be willing to spend lots of energy and time using a curry comb, shedding blade and finishing brush; all in tune with a proper diet and nutrition, to keep the coat looking healthy and well-groomed.

Once you've selected your clippers-- varieties are available for different jobs -- introduce your horse to them slowly and carefully.

A young/green horse especially needs to be introduced to clippers in a relaxed manner. Show the green horse the "turned-off" clippers. Let the horse smell them. Rub the body with the clippers still in the off position while speaking in a soft-soothing manner. Reward the horse for standing quietly. Munching on a few carrots will give your horse the idea that your using the clippers is "a good thing". When you first turn on the clippers, stand back a few feet and let the horse become accustomed to the sound. A few more carrots are in order for positive cooperative behavior.

If you feel your horse will let you proceed, begin the job at hand. If the Horse become stressed or frightened, turn the clippers off and begin the introduction process again. Take your time and don't rush. Patience will pay off and as a result you will have a horse that will be easy to clip.

Today's clippers are quieter and less fear provoking than those manufactured a few yeas ago. Well-maintained, oiled and sharpened correctly will make the job less upsetting for the horse. It is best to have someone familiar with the horse stand near its head and talk softly to the horse during the clipping procedure.

As horses are accustomed to having their feet and legs worked with daily grooming and the farrier visits, start with the legs by lifting the front leg and bracing it with your arm and wrist. A show horse will required a trimmed coronet band, at the top of hoof, working up into the lay of the coat. Trim with scissors for a precise edge. If the coronet hair is removed, it is wise to use a hoof dressing several times per week to keep moisture in the hoof. If the horse is not being shown, coronet band hair is better left alone.

Remove the coat just above the coronet, clipping against the lay of the coat. Remove the fetlock hair over the ankle. Clip untidy hairs along the back of the leg, clipping against the lay of the coat, up from the ergot mark on the back of the ankle to the knee.

Now that you have tackled the legs without much fuss, a bridle path is next. The amount of mane removed is specific to the breed. A horse with a shorter neck should have less mane removed, and a horse with a long, arched neck would have a longer bridle path.

Slowly and gently begin clipping downward on the mane from a point directly even with the back of the ear. Tidy up the edge of the mane for a bridle path by turning the clipper blade at right angles to the mane, and marking a defined edge.

About half an inch to an inch of mane is left on top of the pointy part on the top of the horse's head or the occiput bone. This leaves enough of a forelock to braid with ribbons for the show ring.

The ears may require a lot of "your" patience. To do the ears, fold the ear in half vertically and hold it firmly with one hand. Pinch the ear shut and use a finishing trimmer to remove the hair from the edges of the ear. Clip from the top edge to the base of the ear.

Remove the hair on the inside of the ear of a show horse, leaving a small "V" of hair at the top inside the ear. The back side of the ear can be clipped by holding the ear flat and clipping against the lay of the coat.

To trim the muzzle, begin with the long hairs, using a quiet finishing trimmer. Work carefully around the nostrils and edges of the mouth. Long hairs are also removed from around the eyes. Clip the underside of the muzzle against the lay of the coat up to the throat, blending off at the cheek muscle.

A variety of body clips are used on horses, depending on the climate and stable conditions. A low "trace clip" is the trim of choice in the winter--it leaves most of the horse alone except for the areas where it is most likely to sweat. If you're going to do a trace or hunter clip, it helps to use chalk or a brightly colored grease crayon to outline the areas you plan to trim. A blanket at night may be in order depending on the climate.

A full body clip will require the use of a comfortable, warm stable blanket. A blanket liner is very useful and keeps the inside of your horse's blanket clean. It is far easier to toss a blanket liner into the washer then bundle your stable blanket off to the laundry mat. It is prudent to have a second or "back up blanket" on hand, just in case your primary blanket becomes unusable or requires repair.

This information was modified with permission from Oster Professional Products, from The Horse: Grooming and Care, by Dorothy Walin. To order the booklet, or for more on Oster's grooming products, call (800) 887-6682.